From Churches to Volcanoes: Travel Guide for Quito, Ecuador
Nestled high in the Andes Mountains, Quito, Ecuador boasts everything from lively markets and plazas, to stunning hikes and colonial architecture that has lasted for centuries. Yet, it’s not only the rich history and natural beauty that make Quito an ideal backpacking destination. All the sights, sounds, and flavors of this vibrant city can easily be enjoyed on a tight budget.
Getting There
Planning a trip to Quito is relatively straightforward. You’ll fly into Mariscal Sucre International (UIO) and are in for a treat as far as South American airports go (free wifi, filtered water stations, great facilities). However, if you’re coming from most places in the world, flying into Quito means a big elevation gain. Be prepared for swollen feet and some altitude sickness.
We flew to Quito after many delayed flights and eventually arrived at 2am, so we were incredibly relieved to see a line of taxi drivers still waiting to take passengers into the city. The going rate for this 45-minute drive is $25, so be sure to ask ahead of time about price.
Weather
You’d imagine Quito’s location directly on the equator would make for warm weather and sunny skies, but as the second highest capital city in the world at over 9,000ft, prepare to be a little chilly. Quito’s climate is relatively consistent year-round, though you’ll encounter less rain during the dry season from June-September. Temperatures can get up to 67 degrees during the day and drop to the high 40’s at night.
We came to Quito after two weeks traveling in 90 degree weather. This meant, while we were grateful for a break from the heat, we were ill-prepared for Quito’s chilly nights. If you’re like us and packing light requires you to buy the necessities as you go, this mall in Quito’s downtown was a lifesaver. We headed straight there our second day, did some negotiating, and came home with a fake but warm North Face jacket, a raincoat, and two pairs of pants for $40.
Where to Stay
There’s a number of different neighborhoods that make up Quito and deciding where to stay depends mainly on what you’re traveling for. If you’ll only be in Quito a few days, it’s a good idea to stay in Centro Historico. This district is the colonial center of the city and contains many of the primary tourist attractions (museums, churches, Independence Square). If you have more time on your hands, you can venture into neighborhoods like Mariscal Sucre – known for its nightlife scene – or La Floresta – an artsy neighborhood that contains the Universidad Andina Simon Bolivar (Simon Bolivar Andean University).
Hostels provide an incredibly cheap option for backpackers in Quito ($6-15 a night). There’s a ton of options, most spanning from Centro Historico up through the La Floresta neighborhood. Regardless, we opted for Airbnbs during our stay. We found a great spot right downtown in Centro Historico for $25 a night and later stayed in a three-bedroom penthouse in Mariscal for $30 a night. Needless to say, if you’re ever going to “splurge” a bit on lodging, Quito is the place!
Food
As a general rule, we tend to stick to groceries over eating out when traveling in order to save money. However, this is entirely not necessary in Quito and we realized we often spent more cooking our own meals than if we’d eaten out. With that being said, avoid the larger supermarkets (like this one) and seek out local tiendas if you do opt for groceries.
Here were a few of our favorite spots in the city:
This all-vegetarian restaurant in Centro Historico is AMAZING. It’s located inside a yoga lounge, so you’re surrounded by decorative tables, so many plants, and the sounds of chimes and “Om” while you eat. The menu consists of everything from creative breakfasts, to classic Ecuadorian dishes made vegan, to lentil burgers and delicious desserts – all from $1 to $3.50. We highly recommend it for both food and vibes.
Located in the Mariscal neighborhood, this was easily the best Indian food we’ve had while traveling. The outdoor seating is a plus and the staff were great – though prices are expensive for Quito, with meals averaging $10. Regardless, we left with leftovers and no regrets!
If you’re in search of pizza in Quito – look no further! We found this spot late one night after a day of sightseeing and came home so happy with our (huge) to-go personal pizzas for $3.50 each.
We had a difficult time finding Mexican food spots while traveling Ecuador, but this one was pretty good! Tacos rang up at roughly $6 and though they didn’t advertise vegetarian food on the menu, they did a great job upon request. Our only recommendation - don’t come hungry, as the wait was relatively long.
Attractions
Pululahua Crater
Just an hour drive from downtown Quito, Pululahua is a dormant volcano that last erupted nearly 2,500 years ago and now hosts an entire community of farmers in its crater. You’ll begin your journey to Pululahua at the visitor center where you’ll sign the log book, give your passport information, and hit the restroom if need be. After that you’re free to head uphill to the start of the trek. Make sure to take a pause at the Pululahua Viewpoint where you’ll catch your first glimpse of the volcano’s peaks and the farmland below which looks like something out of a movie. From here, you can hike as long as you’d like down the crater’s walls – just know, however far you go down, you’ll have to go back up! You can even book an overnight stay at the Pululahua Ecolodge and spend some time getting to know the village down below. Once you’ve made it to the top again, be sure to check out the local artisan gift shops near the visitor center for souvenirs.
Mitad del Mundo
Welcome to the middle of the world – well, almost….
The Mitad del Mundo monument in Pichincha was crafted following the charting of the equatorial line by a French expedition in 1736. Unfortunately, their 18th century mapping skills were approximately 250 meters off, making the Mitad del Mundo monument your chance to have a photo-op at Ecuador’s “fake” equatorial line.
To check it out, head one hour north from Quito’s Centro Historico and begin your journey at the Ciudad del Mitad Mundo visitor center. The monument and surrounding village are open from 9am-5pm daily (6pm on weekends) and the entrance fee is $5 for adults. Once inside, you’ll be able to climb the stairs of the nearly 100 ft (30 m) tall monument and take in the view from the top. Afterwards, be sure to check out the Museo Intiñan which provides a glimpse into the past and offers interactive exhibits to understand the science of the two hemispheres. You can also check out the gift shops or grab a bite to eat at the restaurants on site (but be prepared for higher prices, as the area caters to tourists).
TeleferiQo
The TeleferiQo is a can’t miss destination when visiting Quito and was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. Open from 9am-7pm daily (8am on weekends), the TeleferiQo is a cable car that runs from the city center up the eastern side of the Pichincha Volcano and provides visitors with stunning views of the city below.
You’ll begin your trip at the visitor center down below where you’ll pay a $9 entrance fee and receive a ticket to ride (make sure you keep this ticket for the journey back down!). You’ll then load into the glass-walled cable car and begin your 20-minute ride up the mountain. Be prepared to meet fellow travelers on the ride, as the cars each seat six people.
If you thought the view on the way up was amazing, it’s nothing compared to what you’ll see at the top. When you unload from the cable car, you’ll be greeted by another welcome center on the right with various meal options and gift stands – easily avoided in our opinion. The real treat is just outside where you’ll find wooden lawn chairs at the edge of the mountain to sit and take in your first real view of the valley down below. From here, you can hike up the mountain a short ways to find one of Quito’s infamous “swings at the edge of the world” and take your turn swinging over the edge with the view of the entire city down below.
While we’d consider this a must-see attraction, there are a couple things to be prepared for. No matter how warm the weather is down below, the top of the mountain is CHILLY. We’d recommend coming prepared with long pants, jackets, and even hats and gloves. Additionally, a number of adventurers continue their hike up to the volcano’s summit (Rucu Pichincha). For this option, you’ll need to begin your trip before 11am and prep for an extra five hours of hiking there and back. While this sounds up our alley, we didn’t do the additional hike because of the effects altitude sickness had on us. If you’ve just flown into Quito from a lower altitude, be prepared for even the short walk to the swings to be a major physical challenge.
Churches
Conquered by the Spanish in 1534, Quito is a city rich with colonial history and a major marker for this can be found in the numerous churches and cathedrals throughout Centro Historico, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Most of these churches have entrance fees and specific visiting hours for tourists, so it’s a good idea to do a little research before planning your itinerary for the day.
Known as “one of the finest churches in Quito,” the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús is a remarkably ornate church built between 1605 and 1765 by the Jesuits. If you head downtown to Quito’s Centro Historico, you’ll likely run into it at the corner of Garcia Moreno and Sucre streets. Pay the entrance fee of $5 and you’ll be welcomed into a church covered from floor to ceiling in gold with a beautiful dome.
Things to note: Photography is not allowed, so don’t plan on getting your perfect travel shot inside the golden church. Additionally, upon exiting, we were given a free drink ticket to a restaurant across the street (may have been a one-time thing though).
Another church to visit is the Basílica del Voto Nacional also located in Centro Historico. Constructed between 1887 and 1924, this is the largest neo-Gothic church in South America. You can check it out for a $3 fee and climb to the top of the towers to take in a view of the city.
You can’t say you’ve traveled Ecuador without making a stop in Quito. From taking in the colonial architecture to learning from ancient Incan wisdom at Mitad del Mundo, this cloudy, chilly city gives you a taste of what life is like high in the Andes and offers countless opportunities to take a step back in time. So, grab your jackets, adjust to the altitude, DON’T DRINK THE WATER, and you’re in for a great time!