Scratch the Cruise: Galapagos Islands on a Budget
The Galapagos Islands… an archipelago located roughly 600 miles off the coast of mainland Ecuador. This was a dream destination we had both wanted to see for as long as we could remember and our expectations were blown away. By the time our week on the islands came to a close, we had seen penguins, blue-footed boobies, sea lions, rays, tortoises, at least 50 sharks, and SO much more.
Before we get into it, know there are two main ways of visiting the Galapagos Islands:
1. Taking a cruise boat. The boat will travel between islands each night and you’ll stop to visit different islands during the day.
2. Staying on-island. In other words, spending your nights at one of the three main islands that have lodging options (Isabela, Santa Cruz, or San Cristóbal), then taking day trips and returning to your original island as a home base each night.
Option 2 is thousands of dollars cheaper and since we travel on a limited budget, we opted for this route. We ended up staying 4 nights in an Airbnb in Santa Cruz, taking day trips to Bartolome Island and Isabela Island, then staying 2 nights on San Cristóbal.
Santa Cruz
To get to Santa Cruz we flew into Isla Baltra (Baltra Island) which is the small island just a few hundred meters north of Santa Cruz that pretty much only consists of the airport. We then took a short bus ride to the Itabaca Channel ($5 per passenger). Next was a ferry across the channel for $1 each which we paid for in cash once we had already boarded. Note: if you have any luggage larger than a backpack, the ferry operators will likely put your luggage above the boat which is standard. After crossing the channel, there were taxi drivers in pickup trucks waiting, and we took one for $25 to get to Puerto Ayora, the main town on the island.
Safety in the Galapagos
This is a good time to talk about scams in the Galapagos. While most of the people we met were very kind and helpful, some tried to get more money out of us than we originally agreed upon. Our taxi driver to Puerto Ayora was one of the latter. He seemed nice at first, but after talking about some of the sights to see nearby, he pulled over at a tortoise viewing area and refused to leave until we agreed to pay an extra $50 so he could show us around before dropping us off. We repeatedly said no, and he finally continued on to take us where we wanted to go. If you run into a situation like this, be sure to be firm and clear about what you want and what you don’t want.
We were eventually dropped off and were initially surprised by the area our Airbnb was located in. There were roosters and stray dogs walking around, crumbling buildings, and very few people. However, this initial surprise quickly went away as we spent more time in the area. We found that the more people we talked to and the more time we spent, the more at home we felt. There was volcanic rock everywhere, beautiful palm trees, and overall incomparable scenery. This likely contributed to the general attitude we found in the Galapagos – laid back and friendly. Despite its initial appearance, Puerto Ayora felt safer than any big city we had been to in the U.S. and there was a sense that the community really cared for everyone’s wellbeing.
Wifi on the Islands
While you likely won’t have a lot of free time to be spending on your devices, you also shouldn’t expect to be getting any work done that requires a fast internet connection. However, the internet quality is expected to increase tenfold due to a new underwater fiber cable connection that's currently being built to connect the islands to mainland Ecuador. This project is supposed to be finished in mid-2023, so stay tuned for that.
Getting Between Islands
To get between islands, the most common method is to take transport boats. Depending on which islands you’re going between, they can take anywhere from 1-4 hours – and they are BUMPY.
Pro tip: If you want a less bumpy, scenic ride but with a risk of getting soaking wet and cold, sit near the back. If you want a warmer ride but more bumps, sit further up front.
Day Trips
As mentioned earlier, we did two day trips while staying on Santa Cruz Island – to Bartolome and Isabela Island. These day trips were definitely the most eventful part of our Galapagos experience. However, let it be known, they were also the most pricey. Our philosophy was that certain experiences would be worth splurging on in the Galapagos, as we don’t know how much longer it will all be around. We saved a lot by staying in inexpensive Airbnbs and eating the cheapest food we could find while spending significantly more on snorkeling experiences and tours – and they were worth every penny.
Bartolome
A small island that you can only see with an official guide, our Bartolome Tour was hands-down our favorite experience of the trip. Leaving from Puerto Ayora in Santa Cruz, we were picked up and taken via shuttle to the Itabaca Channel, shuttled via a small boat to a larger yacht, and taken two hours northwest to Bartolome Island. We then took the small boat to the island to do the hiking portion of Bartolome and admired the beautiful views while learning fun facts.
After this, we were taken back to the yacht and allowed to snorkel just off the shore of the island. Note, wetsuits were not included in this tour but were available for $6 cash, which we happily paid to stay warm. If you get cold easily, consider renting a full-body wetsuit ahead of time.
When we first got in the water we saw a whitetip shark swim right underneath us and admired the beautiful fish you won’t see anywhere else in the world. We then heard some shouting from our guides and looked underwater to see a sea lion swimming right underneath us! We were also able to see penguins diving right beside us, huge eagle rays swimming by coral, and sea turtles wading in the currents. After snorkeling, we warmed up and were given a freshly cooked fish lunch (tofu for Abbey).
While nobody is guaranteed to see this amount of wildlife, we definitely recommend this trip to anyone wanting to get a bit closer of a view. Though we paid $249 each, the trip was well worth the money. However, most Bartolome day tours are very similar, so it would be worth checking out others as well.
Isabela
The other day tour we took was to Isabela Island, the largest of the Galapagos Islands. It started by boarding a public transport boat to take us to Isabela. We sat in the back of the boat and were so glad we brought our coats, because we got entirely soaked! It was worth the views of the waves and islands though, and the temporary cold was a small price to pay for the memories. We arrived at Isabela and bought $1 coffee, dried off, and used the restrooms while waiting for our shuttle. We were then taken to see some of the Galapagos flamingos and later, a tortoise breeding center.
After seeing all of the tortoises, we headed to a local restaurant for lunch and then to our final and favorite activity, snorkeling through the Tintoreras Islet. The water's visibility was definitely worse than our Bartolome trip, but after our guide told us to swim into a small opening in the volcanic rock, we were in awe. The guide warned us to only doggy paddle, not use our feet, and to watch out for the volcanic rock on either side because it was low tide and the cove got quite narrow. Once we entered, we immediately saw sharks just below us – so close you could reach out and touch them. We were spooked but ecstatic, and ended up passing over 40 sharks by the time we made it to the other side.
We couldn’t find the exact tour we did, but we paid $170 each (so incredibly worth it) and this tour looks like it includes everything we did.
Unexpected Expenses
No matter how much you stick to the cheaper options, the Galapagos will ultimately be expensive compared to mainland Ecuador, and there are unexpected costs to prepare for.
We were surprised by the low price of flights getting to and from the Galapagos ($100-$150 each way), but don’t be fooled. As non-Ecuadorians, we were also required to pay an additional $150 each at our Avianca gate. This was on top of the $100 each you have to pay in cash shortly after landing in the Galapagos and the $20 each for tourist cards. Finally, when we arrived in Isabela and San Cristóbal, there was a $10 tax per person to get into each island.
The Galapagos Islands are a destination unlike any other in the world. The amount of biodiversity that continues to be preserved here is remarkable – and with climate change looming, we don't know how long it will last. This is what makes the Galapagos a dream destination for so many.
Our top advice for making the trip possible: Keep it simple in your lodging and meals and splurge on tours, because you'll likely never be in a place quite as unique as the Galapagos again.
Sara's already been to the Galapagos, but not me. I'm pretty sure I need to talk Sara into taking me there!! It looks lovely!!!