Village Vibes: Where to Stay in Lake Atitlán
Your first encounter with Lake Atitlán will probably feel like a scene out of the movies. Its teal blue water flanked on all sides by rising volcanic mountains creates a dramatic landscape reminiscent of Jurassic Park.
However, the views aren’t the only thing that sets this Guatemalan gem apart from other lakeside destinations. Once you arrive, you’ll be immersed in the rich history and culture kept alive within its dozen Mayan villages. From textiles and cuisines, to traditions and even languages, each village is different from the next and offers something unique for visitors to experience. So, where to start?
The Villages You Can’t Miss
While every traveler has there own agenda when visiting Lake Atitlán, there are a few spots that just can't be skipped.
Panajachel
Even with limited time in your visit, you absolutely “can’t miss” Panajachel. That is to say, the village serves as the primary tourist hub and departure point to reach all the other villages along Lake Atitlán. If you’re bussing from Antigua, your arrival point at the lake will most likely be Pana, and if you arrive too late to catch a boat, you’ll probably be spending the night there.
As the main stopping point for most visits, Pana is heavily geared towards tourists. The streets are lined with souvenir shops and there’s gringo food galore. You can also find nightlife here that’s not present in most of the other villages.
While it’s definitely an option to stay in Panajachel and take day trips to each of the other villages (and we met many people who did), we would recommend planning a one-night stay for the night of your arrival and then boating across the lake to San Pedro.
San Pedro La Laguna
At the opposite end of the lake from Panajachel, you’ll find the village of San Pedro, the second major docking point for boats on the lake. San Pedro is definitely geared toward tourism, but not nearly as heavily as Pana. This means you’ll still be able to find the souvenirs and less-traditional food you might be searching for, but you’ll also be much more likely to interact with locals who call the village home.
When you get to San Pedro, you’ll quickly realize why the village is considered a backpacker’s paradise. Hint hint: it’s the prices. Not only were we able to find meals for much cheaper than across the lake, the village also has a number of grocery stores where you can buy produce to cook back at your place.
Last but not least, San Pedro boasts an extensive list of things to do. Lining the shore, you’ll find a number of Spanish classes for the less-than-bilingual traveler. You can climb Volcan San Pedro if you’re feeling up for a challenge, or opt to bus over to catch the sunrise at Nariz del Rostro Mayo (also called Nariz del Indio). Finally, the nightlife is unmatched when it comes to remote lake destinations. Depending on where you stay (we LOVED Mandala's Hostel), you can sign up for most of these activities after your arrival. We highly recommend basing yourself here for the majority of your stay and day-tripping to the other villages.
San Marcos La Laguna
San Marcos’s reputation as the “hippy village” cannot be overstated. Meandering up the street from the boat dock you’ll encounter dozens of barefoot tourists and shopkeepers beading jewelry, conversing about yoga and spiritualism, and indulging in various herbs. The streets are lined with intricate murals and you’ll find a wealth of yoga retreat options and vegan cuisines (a rarity for Guatemala).
However, if you don’t quite jive with this bohemian lifestyle, San Marcos is still worth a day-trip solely because of the Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve.
As you wander up from the docks and meander through the village streets, you can follow signs for the reserve until you eventually reach the visitors station. Here, you’ll pay 20Q (roughly $2.50) and be reminded that there is a strict 4pm departure time for guests. From there, you’ll be able to take in the views of Lake Atitlán from the rocky shoreline and climb down to swim at the lower areas near the water’s edge. There is also a lookout platform high above the water for thrill-seekers to jump from.
Less-Visited Stops Worth Visiting
If you’re keen to get off the beaten tourist path, here are some of the more remote villages that don’t make it to everyone’s itinerary.
San Juan La Laguna
San Juan is the second-to-last stop on the boat ride over from Panajachel. As San Pedro’s lesser known neighbor, it’s very easy to travel between the two villages via tuktuk. San Juan is a quiet town full of colorful buildings that line the hillside. It’s also the closest village to the Nariz del Rostro Mayo sunrise hike, which means a slightly later wake-up call.
Santiago La Laguna
At the southwest end of the lake, past San Pedro, you’ll find the largest and arguably most traditional village along Atitlán’s shores. The population of Santiago la Laguna is predominately made up of indigenous Tz’utujil Mayans. While waning in numbers, their traditions are still alive. Here you can take a class on traditional Mayan weaving or bring an offering to Maximon, the town deity who hops from house to house every year.
Santa Cruz La Laguna
About halfway between Panajachel and San Pedro, you’ll find another colorful village known as Santa Cruz. While all the Lake Atitlán villages were built up the hillsides, Santa Cruz takes the cake for most vertical. The village is still large, but much quieter than San Pedro or Pana, with a walking path all along the shoreline and epic viewpoints of the lake. The primary reason many visitors take the ride over to Santa Cruz, however, is that it’s home to ATi Divers, currently the sole diving school along the lake.
Santa Caterina Pololopó
If it hasn’t been said enough, the villages of Lake Atitlán are known for their colorful buildings, and Santa Caterina Polopó is no exception. The town sits on the eastern side of the lake, past Panajachel, and while small, still holds a number of things to do from the sporadic museum to some of the only natural hot springs along the lake.
Each year, the villages of Lake Atitlán bring in travelers from all around the world with their diverse appeal. Whether you're a zen-seeking yogi, nature enthusiast, or simply searching for a one-of-a-kind cultural experience, Lake Atitlán won't disappoint.
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